Bikepacking Africa, Week 5: Zambia!

Cycle 5 to Survive arrives in Zambia

      

• Hit the border at 8:10am. Trying to exchange money at the border. Not giving us what we want. PL is negotiating as much as he can.
• No visa needed but a long line. Finally stamped and ready to go at 9:45am. Not complete chaos, but not moving in any attempt to get the line through.
• Had a nice chat with a Dutch family here for a wedding. He’s Malawian, but has lived in Holland for 25 years. So many Dutch people!
• Into Chipata at 10:45am after a pretty chill ride. It’s a pretty big city. Saw a SPAR grocery store too.
• Trying to find an Airtel to get a new sim card and data so we can use our maps. Were told that we had passed it and had to go back up. Which was funny because the blue dot on my apps was telling me it was up ahead. So we had a snack and then looked again, and the blue dot shifted. And we had to go back up…lol. But, it’s very close to an ice cream store! So hopefully I can grab some of that before the end of our stay!
• Finally got our SIM cards…again, nothing quickly. Had our ice creams, hit the ATM, and then made our way to the room for the night. Rolled into Faigib Guest House at 12:45pm. It’s nice and reasonable.
• Took a shower and laid down. Planning on meeting up with the Frenchies later.
• Went to China Mall to get food but it wasn’t a good store, more like a Walmart.
• Met up with 4 bikepackers at the Indian restaurant: Marc (German), Julien (Swiss), Yoann & Juliette (France) to hear about bike-packing.
• Took a taxi back to our room for 9pm. In bed at 9:30 to read. Long day tomorrow.

41.33km/301m
Total: 1,826.25km/16,287m

Day 26: Chipata > Sinda, Zambia

   

• Alarm at 6am. I’m having to get up and go to the bathroom in the middle of the night which is a pain because then I can’t fall back asleep right away. Also uncomfortable as I can’t sleep in my right side yet. Hopefully the shoulder feels better today. I’ll take a muscle relaxer to see off that will help.
• Nice breakfast with omelettes and bread and coffee/tea. Riding out at 7:15am. Onto the Great East Road.
• Episode 3 just came out on our newsletter, so that’ll be motivation to ride today so we can watch it tonight!
• Massive solar farm just outside of the city.
• Really pretty, good tarmac and minimal traffic. Cross winds but nothing crazy.
• Stopped at 9:45 am for drinks and snacks. Never quite sure if it’s right to stop and eat when we buy drinks.
• Definitely more of a chill vibe. Kids don’t come screaming over asking for money. They’re still curious, but everybody’s very polite.
• Came up along Katete Dam, on the left-hand side, before we went into Katete. Hopping town!
• Stopped just after at 12 for donuts, Nutella & bananas.
• Cruising along and ran into Craig and Kim from Sydney, Australia. They’ve been riding for over four years. They do go back home here and there, but are consistently on the road for multiple months. And have been all over the world. Exchanged some Intel about both our travels as they are going in the opposite direction. We’ll connect through Instagram as they have a lot of experience riding around Asia.
• Rolled into Sinda at 2 pm and found our Lodge. Watched our Week 3 video and had showers.
• Hung out clothes to dry and chilled in bed. PL had a nap.
• Went to the restaurant at the lodge at 5:30 for chicken, chips, veggies & beer.

120.91/777m
Total: 1,947.16km/17,064m

Day 27: Sinda > Nyimba, Zambia

• Up at 6am and to breakfast for 6:30. Decent breakfast of eggs, tomato, and onion with four pieces of toast. There was hot chocolate powder, but there was only the creamer powder. Just had a lot of that and sugar and it all tasted fine. Ready to ride out at 7:30 am.
• Grabbed our donuts right away, but we’re still looking for bananas. There are no guarantees.
• Funny, found our bananas. Had to cross the road, which we try not to do but happy to find them.

   

• Stopped at a lodge to buy Fantas and eat. Security guy was watching us like a hawk.
• Just saw my first cacti bush!
• Stopped for cold Fantas and snacks about 20 K to go. They were so cold. it had ice in it, kind of like a slushy. Perfect! Went to give the bottles back and he said just throw them on the ground. I couldn’t do it. So he took them and threw them🤦🏻‍♀️
• Rolled into Nyimba at 1:30 and found Kamumams Lodge. PL is working his magic.
• Rooms are being cleaned, so we’re hanging out in the restaurant having water.
• PL is cleaning the chains and there’s a bank nearby so we’re going to hit the ATM.
• Took the room so they could fit our bikes easier. Plus, it had two beds. We often do that so I sleep in a single and PL sleeps in the double. That way we have really good sleeps.
• The WiFi doesn’t reach here but it works in the restaurant so that’s fine.
• Had hot showers, PL had a nap, and then we went to the restaurant where the Wi-Fi is to work on our route.
• Worked for a few hours and ordered our food at 5 pm. Thought it would be here around 6:15, but we’re still waiting. The owner is really nice and went to get us two beers. We’re in no rush.
• Food was good but it took 2 hours. Back in our rooms at 7:30pm.

116.61km/722m
Total: 2,063.77km/17,786m

Day 28: Nyimba > Luangwa Bridge, Zambia

• Slept in until 6:30 because breakfast wasn’t open until 7:15am. PL said he didn’t sleep well. Of course nothing is ready so out looks like out will be as late start today. Another guest tried to get things going but they wanted no help, lol. Then we got 2 boiled eggs and 2 pieces of bread. And salt 🤦🏻‍♀️ We will definitely need to find donuts and bananas!

   

• Riding out just after 8am. Yes, bananas! Plus, donuts and popcorn.
• First snack at 9:45. Making good time. Up and down on repeat! Time for audio books. Long climbs. This is not about running. Mary Cain.
• Stopped with about 25 km to go to get another drink. Met by a drunk guy who was really loved. And everybody told him to chill out which was pretty funny. Then they give us seats to sit and have our drinks while they play checkers.
• Last 25K was quite hilly and windy. Pretty tired, but was excited to see the bridge crossing Luangwa River as that was where our stop was. Only to descend across the bridge and have to climb back up again to make a left turn to descend back down to where we were staying for the night.

   

• 3 km down the road we found the bridge camp. Rolled in around 2pm. Very expensive, put PL negotiated and almost 2 for 1 camping deal.
• Got our tent set up and went for our beer up by the pool. Met two families from Holland traveling around in Overlanders with their 2 kids each. One of the mums is from PL’s hometown in Friesland.
• Ordered our dinner for 6pm. Expensive, but it looks really good.
• Then to shower…which were great! Hot with lots of pressure! Such a treat.
• Back to the restaurant area to get caught up and wait for dinner at 6pm which was on time & delicious! Had a good chat with the Germans, Harold & Silke. It’s us in a tent and 4 Overlanders.
• Uploaded everything and did some posts.
• Then met Mark & Nicky (SA) and they suggested a whole new route. So we will consider it. Spent a good few hours chatting with both couples.

105.95km/1,115m
Total: 2,169.72km/18,901m

Week 5, Day 29: Luangwa Bridge > Rufunsa, Zambia

• Up at 6am and got ready and started packing up along with everybody else in the campsite.
• Mark offered us Cappuccinos, which we happily accepted. We didn’t have our Arrow Press like all good Canadians would!

   

• We had breakfast up in the restaurant, which had a big European sausage with it, so we were excited to have protein for breakfast.
• Continued our conversation with Mark and Nicky about rerouting. They pulled out the big map and got us thinking about what to do. It would take us through Mozambique and into South Africa along a cycling route into Cape Town. It would be much more scenic and beautiful riding versus more isolated desert riding up in Botswana. We have until Victoria Falls to consider, so seven days to contemplate as we ride.
• Had a quick breakfast and then started riding out at 8:15am. It’s going to be a hilly day today!
• Finally stopped at 11 o’clock after 42 cases of climbing with 860 m of elevation! Lots of up…
• Seeing mostly charcoal on the roads and not a lot else. Some pretty small dust little villages.
• Also starting to see Styrofoam packaging along the sides of the roads in the garbage. Didn’t see that until Zambia.

   

• Seeing the [buffalo & impala bikes] around quite a bit too. Not in this last section as it was way too hilly, but starting to see them now. That’s a good sign as it means maybe we’ll start going down again!
• Had a quick drink and then pulled off down the road to have our snacks so we didn’t eat in front of people. A kid on a bike was with us he kept going and then he turned around and came back and just stood beside us and watched. It feels so awkward. Then he followed us a bit more, but a woman called him off the road and made him stop.
• Still climbing after that, and I felt pretty tired. Maybe I was too full from the thick yogurt drink, and then the snack.
• Rolled into our stop at 1:15pm. Another early stop, but it was such a long climbing day, we’re both ready for a break.
• Got a nice room with hot showers and both our bikes fit in. Meals are available at the restaurant.
• Had the rest of our bike snacks and dry cold Moshi (Zambian) beers!!!!!
• Hung out in our room while we waited for our clothes to dry and then went and asked Mary to make us a meal. She is quite lovely.
• There’s a pretty cool vibe in this community as the area’s kept nice and clean and there are kids playing football games on two separate fields.
• Had dinner at 6:30 outside Mary’s restaurant on the picnic table and it was probably the best chicken we’ve had. Nicely crispy and fried and TENDER! With rice and nicely salted greens.
• Back to our rooms at 7:30pm I’m reading and PL is looking at the alternate route options.

80.0km/1,209m
Total: 2,249.72km/20,110m

Day 30: Rufunsa > Chongwe, Zambia

• Up at 6:30 AM as breakfast wasn’t available till 7 AM. Mary made us a really good omelette but we just had plain bread and some ketchup. Not able to make any sandwiches today so I’m rolling out with one plain piece of bread.
  • Another beautiful morning. Hoping for donuts and bananas to secure for the ride today!
  • Riding out at 7:45am.
  • Pulled off at this little kind of Centre just off the main road and they said they had donuts but we are into our third place and haven’t been able to find them yet.
  • A lot of charcoal being sold around here. Small bags, big bags everybody has their little cooking pot going.
  • Found some day olds. Still looking for bananas and they said yeah in Changwe. Which is 120 km from here. Lol.
  • It’s pretty funny to still see pool tables under covering just randomly throughout this ride. Nothing else around, but you can almost always find that!
  • A lot of truck traffic since we left a Luangwr bridge.
  • A lady from a few stops ago, just drove by & stopped to give us water and bananas. Also wants us to stop and meet her when we get to Lusaka. We will see.
  • Found some popcorn!! lol…it’s not popcorn. White beans!
  • found some drinks and fresh frittas (fritters) in kanyongaloka
  • Very nice conversations with some locals.
  • Kept riding and then stopped for another drink, and as soon as we pulled up, some guy who was a little stoned, asked for money. Then he asked for us to buy something. They’re a whole bunch of kids there and I just told the kids not to listen to them… Lol.
  • Made it into Chungwe at 2:30pm and checked out one Lodge first. No Wi-Fi and no restaurant. We decided to keep riding to find another one. PL is trying to work his magic.
  • Decided to take it even though it was 700zkw. It’s really updated with a great shower. WiFi is down but breakfast is included.
  • Had showers and went to choppies. Grabbed treats for the bikes. Oreos, candies and chips for our beers.
  • Had some cold moshis with our chips and then back to our room & Short nap for PL
  • Then to dinner at 6. Both had smokies with chips and coleslaw.
  • Back in rooms to watch some women’s AFCON and the some WNBA.

   

113.2km/1,273m
Total: 2,362.92km/21,383m

Day 31: Chongwe > Nzingu

• Up at 6am for breakfast at 6:30. It wasn’t our best night of sleeping. PL said he had a bunch of crazy dreams and I couldn’t fall asleep. Once I did, I was woken up quite a bit by some barking dogs. Just felt like I tossed and turned all night.
• Breakfast was good, although we both found bugs in our coffee somehow?
• Found our fritters & bananas right away and are riding our bikes out at 7:30am.

   

• Quite a few poultry farms heading into Lusaka. Ross Farms has a great logo. And a blueberry farm, and blueberries. But we couldn’t get any to buy!
• We’ve also started seeing bikes carrying lots of stuff on the front and back. And the mini buses with trailer so that they can load all the stuff in the trailer instead of opening their gate or hanging off their rear windshield wiper.
• Bypassed Lusaka and took Livingstone Road all the way to the border. Finally off of the Great East Road.
• Rode by Brew Me Coffee so decided to stop for a good coffee and a snack. Amazing! Met Alianai at the coffee shop. Nice guy!
• Nice roundabout way to bypass Lusaka City. We weren’t going to stop anyway, so this was nice and calm and avoided a lot of the traffic.
• A lot of really big expensive properties with walls and gates and security guards.
• Also saw a bunch of solar panels under powerlines. I suggested that idea a country ago!
• Really enjoying today. That coffee really pushed us along for quite a while. Stopped for another stack at 12:15pm. Had bananas, fritters, and the cold chocolate milk!
• Kafue was a hopping little/biggish town! A lot going on.
• Rolled into Shamkan Lodge at 2:15pm. Really hoping the room works for us. Not much else around, so we’ll make it work no matter what.
• The locals have informed us about where we are, lol.
• Didn’t even make it to my room. I needed a beer first!
• Had a great chat with Alice, Mwenda, Oscar & King. Talked about everything including politics.
• Cold showers and washed our clothes. Back to the bar to chat. They are all just downing the beers. We are definitely lightweights.
• Ordered dinner at 4 to be ready for 6. Asked at 6 and they said 7. At 7 we realized they hadn’t even started. Well, that got our new local friends fired up. They let the manager have it.
• So, we hopped in the car with all the drunks to drive 1km to get us food. Back in our room by 7:45pm eating. Too funny. Not sure what we would have done without them. Here’s hoping there’s breakfast tomorrow.
• In bed and reading by 9pm.

124.12km/667m
Total: 2,487.04km/22,050m

Day 32: Nzingu > Chisekesi

• Up and at breakfast at 6:30. Really hoping it comes soon. Pretty decent. The usual fried egg with 2 slices of bread, sliced tomato & red onion, tea.
• Found out yesterday was a holiday, Farmers Day, so that is why the roads were relatively quiet through Lusaka. Looks like today could be different as the road sounds a little busy already! A lot of truck traffic.
• We’ve seen quite a few major rollovers with big trucks. They are pretty epic. Usually everything gets scavenged off of it right away. Not surprising the way people drive here.
• Really nice chill morning and then a couple of big climbs in the first 30 K. Then we hit our stride and we’re really cruising into Mazabuka.
• Stopped at Coffee Berry Farms for a good cup of cappuccino and some pancakes.
• Considering going farther today as we have no real altitude, tail winds, and really nice tarmac.
• 70% of copper coming out of Africa is from Zambia.
• Met a local Swede, who told us to go west through Namibia!
• We’ve been along the railway for the last couple of days as well.
• Stopped for cold drinks before Moze. It’s very windy…and not in the right direction. Also stopped at Choppies in Moze to decide what to do.
• Chugged big bottles of yogurt, drinks, and decided to keep going.
• Went to the next town Chisekesi, an extra 20km, and checked out a few places to decide if we would stay. Went to Pauline’s Place. It’s a B&B with her and her sister Daisy. She’s not here right now but she’s only a kilometer away so we are waiting in her veranda.
• We think she might be walking that kilometer…TIA. It’s just there…lol.
• They were definitely walking! We are going to stay as they are lovely. Yay!
• She even welcomed us with a fresh drink from her garden. Lemons, papaya, and herbs.
• Had hot showers, hung our clothes to dry, and updated our social as well. The sisters made us dinner. It smells amazing!
• Had a great sitdown dinner with Pauline and Daisy, and discussed all kinds of things. The food was traditional and delicious and there was a lot of it. We are really happy with the stay. Even had some local Zambian Rosé. They are learning to make their own wines here instead of importing from South Africa. It was actually quite good. Unique.
• PL slept on a little mattress on the floor while I had a single bed. We were asleep by 9:30pm.
• Great decision to stay here!

130.96km/697m
Total: 2,618km/22,747m

Day 33: Chisekesi > Kalomo

• Up at six for 630 breakfast. We both slept decent. Breakfast was on time and it was good. Got ready to go take pictures, exchanged contacts and we’re riding our bikes by 7:15am.
• Mornings have been quite chilly so we’re starting with our jackets for the first hour. Once we get going and the sun is up, it’s quite nice until early afternoon.
• In the first four hours covered 75K. Stopped for coffees and some more food. Halfway. The wind has been average, but just doesn’t feel easy yet.

   

• Had our cappuccino with carrot cake, and a full English breakfast that we split. Ready to go.
• Stop at the Home Store right beside the coffee shop to buy some clothesline and rope for tying our bikes if we get transport.
• Saw our first golf course in Choma.
• Stopped just passed Tara for some cold drinks and snacks with about 30 km left in our ride today.
• Rolled into Kalomo at 3pm. Crushed it today. The second half was definitely much better.
• Went to Choppie’s right away to get ice cream and chocolate milk if they have it. Then we’ll find a hotel. There are a few options. None of them awesome.
• Ate our small tubs of ice cream in front of everybody🤷🏻‍♀️ There’s no avoiding it.
• Went ahead to look at Zuus Lodge first. Looks good so we’re staying.
• Got unloaded, had warm showers, did laundry and rested.
• Decided to walk into town for dinner as we didn’t want to bank on the Lodge having it ready when they said it would. Walked to Choppie’s to get a couple beer and donuts and then grab street food. Meat pies and egg tortilla pancakes.
• Brought them back to the room to eat. They were both pretty good.
• Had a FaceTime with Marijke as she’s flying out tomorrow. Then she FaceTimed us from the lake to see the progress on the house. There’s still a lot to do, so we’re hoping it’s ready by the time we get home!
• PL decided he wanted to adjust his seat after he got into bed. Not sure how long it took, but his butt is sore so hoping it works a little better for tomorrow.
• In bed by 9pm.

144.60km/683m
Total: 2,762.6km/23,430m

Day 34: Kalomo > Livingstone, Zambia

• Right on schedule. Up at 6am and do breakfast at 6:30. Tables are set and chairs are ready so now it’s just waiting for the food. Nicely on time!!
• Riding out at 7:15. Chilly & sunny.
• PL’s butt is sore so he’s adjusted his saddle a few times this morning. Feels better he says 🤞🏻
• Didn’t peel our jackets until 830 this morning.
• We’ve been following the Zambian Railway for the last three or four days.
• Stopped in Zimba, 50km in for Fantas and food.

   

• Stopped with about 20km to go for one of the [mice] c   hocolate drinks.
• Rolled into our place at around 1:15 pm. We are both pretty exhausted. Looking forward to these next few days off.
• Decided to head to the pool for a quick dip, but it was pretty cold so we just sat up to our waist for a while. Sort of like an ice bath. Grabbed a few beers and finished off the chips.
• Had a great conversation with the young girl from London about what she’s doing in the school she goes to.
• Had showers, hung out clothes to dry and then walked into town to find my Zambia bracelet. Stopped and got a soft serve cone and just chilled until dinner.
• Checked out a few coffee shops for tomorrow morning’s coffee.

   

125.91km/587m
Total: 2,888.51km/24,017m