Week 11: Namibia to South Africa

Day 71: Rosh Pinah > Bo – Plaatz Desert Camp

• 6:15 alarm for breakfast at 7am. I had a great sleep. Great pillows, duvet and cold enough with the AC. Nice background noise from the AC & fridge.
• Had a nice chat with a Namibian couple over breakfast, so we are leaving a bit later. 8:30…
• Just passed the zinc mine here in town. We’ve had lots of discussions about the Chinese being here in Namibia. Apparently, they outnumber all of the other Caucasians?
• Onto the gravel, what do you know but there’s a grading sign on the corner! Fingers crossed…and there it is! Freshly graded hard gravel, which is almost like tarmac.

   

• Hit the Orange River just after 9am. It runs all along the South African border. Absolutely stunning!
• Totally a chill day. Going nice and easy, taking lots of pictures riding with [their arms]! We’re such rebels…lol.
• Came across a group of eight coworkers in the mining industry who were getting ready to fish. One had a rifle for wild animals. They were already drinking at 10am. We had a lot of fun chatting with them about who we are, what we’re doing, taking selfies and, of course, inviting them to come visit and fish.
• Much more beautiful riding along the Orange River, glad we changed our route.
• Came through quite a big mining section about 45 km in.
• Stopped for a quick snack with 15 km to go and then rolled into Bo-Plaatz at 12:00pm.
• Picked pur campsite, #4, had them bring us water and electricity, and then down to the Orange River for a quick soak. It’s incredible.
• Talked about all the people we saw fishing along the way, and the manager here said it’s illegal in the park! Oops…
• This river is the border between Namibia and South Africa here.
• Had a few hours to hang out. It’s really windy so we didn’t set up our tent yet. So much sand blowing around.
• Now they were [call Serena], so we were going to set up by the shed underneath their awning. I was thinking about Jude and Hugo sleeping in the bathroom so that’s what we’re gonna do tonight. That way we don’t have to set up our tent or anything.

   

• Made our supper behind the rock wall and then went to the security tower for WiFi.
• Everything was locked up at 7 pm so we were all alone until security comes.
• Started to rain a little harder and we are hearing thunder as well.
• Went to the ladies bathroom and set up our beds…lol.
• Lights out at 7:45pm.

65.65km/249m
Total: 5,284.10km/33,574m

Day 72: Sunday, September 13 / Bo – Plaatz Desert Camp > Vioolsdrif, Zambia (Frontier River Resort)

• Alarm set for 6am. Definitely thankful for being the only ones here and having access to these bathrooms. It rained off on all night and we’ve definitely heard thunder.
• I know that I’m sleeping, but definitely felt restless last night. PL slept well.
• Had our freeze dried oats with peaches, heavy cream, and brown sugar, and our coffees! Sitting next to the urinal…What’s not to love about that.
• Nice hazy morning, so not too hot as we are climbing right away. All in all turned out to be a pretty good night.
• Hoping to cross over into South Africa today. Last country…
• On our bikes at 7:15am.
• Straight into a climb 400m/8km.

   

• Stunning again! “The rugged mountain landscapes along the C13 Road between Rosh Pinah and Noordoewer alongside the Orange River primarily belong to the dramatic Richtersveld Mountains to the south across the river and the jagged desert ranges of the southern Karas Region including the Huns Mountains extensions and local inselbergs/canyons.”
• Passed a lot of baboons and rocky side walls, which is just incredible. Especially the [ascent] back down to the river.
• Exited the park and now in the Aussenkehr Nature Park.
• We were considering going into town but are not going to as it doesn’t look like there’s anything there. Having a snack at 9:45am. We’re going to keep pushing. It’s a very eerie town. “Aussenkehr is a sprawling agricultural oasis and Aussenkehr settlement in the harsh desert landscape of southern Namibia’s…The word Aussenkehr is German for “outer bend,” describing the sweeping loop the Orange River makes as it forms the natural border between Namibia and South Africa…The location was first established as a farm in 1910 under German colonial rule when irrigation projects were initially attempted…”
• 2nd snack at 11:15 62 km /750m in.
• Hit Noordoewer at 12:15pm. The last Namibian town before we cross into SA. Stopped at the Shell to get cold drinks and spend some of the last of our Namibian dollars.

South Africa!

• Crossing into South Africa at 12:45pm. Stopped to take a picture in the middle of the bridge as the river is the dividing line.
• Went through three checkpoints and then rolled into a lodge we were planning on staying in. Turns out it’s full as it’s been rented by maintenance workers for the border for the last three months.
• The guy was nice enough to give us some water and let us come in and use his phone to call another lodge, but he wouldn’t even let us set up a tent and there was a camping sign.
• We chose to ride our bikes 6 km back along the river to a Tented Lodge. It’s beautiful, includes dinner and breakfast and there was no other place other than possibly setting up a tent in the middle of town.
• Got settled in and the winds began to pick up. The owner said that the [rings] are coming tonight and that it was supposed to be windy, but this is crazy! Looks like the next few days will be OK in the mornings, but by the end of the week it’s supposed to be like this again.
• We’ll play a day by day with the riding. This is a crazy storm.
• Got invited over to the tent next door for gin & tonics. Had great chats with 2 German couples.
• Then up for an incredible dinner at 7pm. Had great chats with the owners.
• Back in our tent by 8:30pm. A lot of little bugs so we need to get the lights out!

101.27km/886m
Total: 5,385.37km/34,460m

Day 73: Monday , September 14 / Vioolsdrif > Springbok (Mountain View Guesthouse)

• Alarm set for 6:15am to have breakfast for 7am. Had everything packed up and ready to go before breakfast.
• It was a great family-style breakfast where we got to chat with the owners, their son Jaden, and some of the border workers who stay there for three months often on.
• Quite the storm last night with the power going out all across the whole district. But we slept amazing as the beds were soft with good blankets and the storm was just wonderful white noise! Riding out on our bikes just before 8am.
• Stopped at the lodge in town from yesterday to ask if there was a place to stay in the next town as recommended by the lodge we stayed at last night.
• There’s a viaduct that runs along the river between it and the highway. We saw people swimming in it yesterday. Looks pretty fun as at meanders all the way along.
• Incredible Rrocky mountains again with the tarmac winding its way up and through.
• Although Namibia is done their school holiday, South Africa is starting their two week school one. So things could get busy in terms of accommodations. I’ll have to look ahead and book if we feel the need.
• The Germans went by and stopped. So fun. One more contact 🤩
• …got up the first section of climbing. 41 km 700 m. Overcast and fresh. But pretty happy with how we’re riding. Going to push for Springbok.

   

• Finally made it to the top at 41 km with 750 m of climbing. Then the rain & heavy cross winds hit and it was cold, windy and even a bit dangerous getting to Steinkopf.
• Had some tea and our stew from the lodge for lunch and then put our rain coats on and off we went.
• Riding the Cape Namibia route.
• We should have a crosstail wind, but it is pretty wet. We still want to keep going. Trying to decide what to do.
• Started ok as the wind was decent and it was dry, but then the rains came. We basically rode most of it in a downpour.
• Didn’t realize how decent the winds were until we had to find our lodge and went straight into the headwind!
• Of course the lodge was uphill, which suited the kind of crazy day it was. Rolled in at 3:15pm soaked but to a smiling face.
• Warm tea and hot showers and now trying to dry everything out.
• Sat and looked at our planning again. Just the next few days look different.
• Ordered our dinner in from a restaurant through our host. Super friendly. He’s calling ahead for us too.
• Looks like rain and wind all week.
• Had our dinner in the dining room and then back to our room. Hoping things will dry for the morning.
• In bed at 8pm.

125.01km/1,510m
Total: 5,510.38km/35,970m

   

Day 74: Tuesday, September 15 / Springbok > Garies (Sophia’s Guesthouse)

• Up at 6:15am for breakfast at seven. Slept pretty good, but woke to a overcast day. It’s supposed to stay dry, but the roads will be pretty wet as it rained all night.
• On our bikes at 8am. A quick ATM stop to get some Rand and off we go.
• Stopped for our 1st snack 61km/700m in. 11:25am.
• Muggy and chilly at the same time.
• Entering Nama National Park. Saw the 80km sign with waves on it…now I know what it is…rolling up and down!! Wind & rain cooperated, thank goodness.

   

• Rolled into Garies at 1:30pm…straight to the baking barista!
• Had rooi cappuccino & melktaart latté with cakes. Yum. Gotta love the Wi-Fi: Deut:30/Beblessed316 🤩
• Still windy but the sun is out and it’s much warmer.
• Checked into Sophia’s Guesthouse. Got a super cute room with dinner and breakfast.
• Unwound and uploaded everything.
• Had hot showers and walked back to the coffee shop to say hello.
• Met Wayne and his wife who are making soup for dinner and to serve to the community.
• Came back to the hotel and had dinner and then into our rooms.
• Watched our latest video and then lights were out at 9 PM

115.79km/1135m
Total: 5,626.17km/37,105m

Day 75: Wednesday, September 16 / Garies > Nuwerus (Hardeveld Lodge & Camping)

• Alarm set for 6:15am for breakfast at seven. Really good breakfast, checked out and went back to see the baking barista for some good coffees.
• Chili and rainy this morning.
• Couple hours in, average speed of 10 km an hour. It’s been very windy and wet and hilly.
• 22 km and 330 m of climbing. Thankfully, it’s not cold. We’re hoping to dry some things out so that we could possibly peel a rain jacket. Found a license plate, jacked up on caffeine, so feeling pretty fun and energetic…lol. Helps that PL’s out front doing all the work!
• Stopped for our first snack 34 km – almost 3 hours. At least it’s dry now and not cold. Hoping for the winds to either die down or change a little bit or the road to turn in the right direction.
• PL is a beast! Very focused today.
• We’ve had quite a few solar cars go by and vehicles that say, caution, solar car ahead. We’re thinking there’s some sort of event or race that has taken place or is taking place.
• Starting to see a few farms with sheep and we think we’re going through an area where the flowers would be in bloom but they had no rain so they’re not. Maybe they will bloom after these couple days of rain nose.
• White is definitely the vehicle color of Africa! Almost everything is white. We’ve seen a lot more Ford pick ups than Toyotas since we’ve crossed the border and almost all travel channels are the low profile ones that lift up. We haven’t seen anything like what we would see back home.
• Earbuds in with 30 K to go! Still fighting the headwinds.
• Stopped at Bitterfontein for our last snack. Just under 20km to go.
• Rolled in at 1:30pm. I was really hoping for some free miles for PL today but no luck. We had to work for every one. He was not impressed.
• Got settled and tried to figure out accommodation for tomorrow night. Have a place but need to decide on food.
• Hot showers and then went to check out the store.
• “The main economic driver in Nuwerus, a small settlement in the Matzikama Local Municipality of the Western Cape, is extensive sheep and small-livestock farming, alongside local service provision for the surrounding arid agricultural region.”
• Bought some snacks for the next couple of days and then went for dinner at 6pm.
• Back to the room to hang out. Watched some tv, some route planning, and then lights out at 9pm.

79.07km/893m
Total: 5,705.24km/37,998m

   

Day 76: Thursday , September 17 / Nuwerus > Strandfontein (Leoni’s Guesthouse)

• Alarm set for 6am for breakfast at 6:30. Trying to beat the wind.
• On our bikes at 7:15am. Heading to the coast!
• Back to [Tara] after 27 km. That gravel was really good so we can’t complain. It’s just the wind, which we turned directly into. At least it’s more down than up.
• Headphones in at 9 am. 30km in.
• [Play playing] on one side and the railway on the other, 10K out of Coatesville.
• Big mining separation plant and further on pipeline went up and over the mountain around the farms. Looks like grapes again. Viaducts and everything. Yep, vineyards.
• Stopped at the Lutzville turnoff for snacks. 10:30am, 54km to go.
• We could smell the sea air about 15 km out. [They requested] one ridge and we saw it with an about 8 or 9Km to go. Thank you.
• Rolled into town at 12:15pm. Had to earn every kilometer again today!
• Found Leoni’s Guesthouse and got settled in.
• Stopped my Garmin too soon. Apparently we still have to ride to the actual guest house…lol. Dang it!
• Checked in, did all our updates, and ate our lunch. Then had showers and just rested until 4pm.
• Walked down to the beach, along it, and then got some supplies and went for dinner early at 4:30pm. It’s beautiful here.
• All the brick houses: “The predominantly brick and masonry construction of houses in Strandfontein (often spelled Strand Fontaine), a coastal suburb of Cape Town, is the result of deeply entrenched South African building traditions, strict regulatory environments, and the harsh realities of the local climate.”
• Watched the sun set on the beach and then back up to the room. It is beautiful down by the beach but very windy and we are kind of done with camping.
• Got some stuff ready for tomorrow, watched a little bit of TV, updated our socials and then in bed. Lights out by 9pm with the door open listening to the waves all night.

79.60km/719m
Total: 5,784.84km/38,717m

 

Day 77: Friday, September 18 / Strandfontein > Draaihoek Lodge

• Up at 5:45am to get out before the winds picked up. Made our breakfast of eggs, toast, coffees, and then packed up.
• On our bikes just after 7:15am.
• Beautiful morning out straight onto the gravel. Incredible having the ocean on your side just for motivation.
• Hit some crappy gravel for a bit, but we did see a grader which was pretty funny. Didn’t work to our advantage too much at first, but the gravel turned nice.
• Riding by another private nature reserve – Soopjeshoogte.
• Riding all along a railway service road. Saw a big African spitting cobra that looked alive, but was probably dead as it didn’t move when peel through rocks at it…lol.
• Rolled into Lambert’s Bay just after 10am for a flat white and a stack of pancakes for a second breakfast.
• About 10 km of tar and then back onto the railway service road gravel for the last 40 k.
• Wadrifmond with flamingos and other birdlife.
• Followed the road again, came through Ellands Bay. Stunning with this massive rockwall mountain to one side of the ocean to the other.
• Rode along the estuary for a little climb up and over back to the coast.
• Stopped for a snack with 20 ks to go at the bottom of the hill climb we’re supposed to have!
• Realize that we could’ve stayed on the railroad accessory road and missed the hill climb.
• I was quite frustrated and I just needed to ride hard by myself into our lodge at 2pm.
• Headwinds were brutal, and our elevation was twice as much as expected.
• Had a bit of a disagreement about today’s ride so we gave each other some space. All good. I went to the pool for my cold soak.
• Then to the ocean. Watched a bunch of whales feeding. Totally deserted white sand beach. Incredible!
• Back to the room to shower. A few minutes in, it started to flood and soak all the floors. Ran to tell them but it took a bit to come. Hopefully the wood floors aren’t soaked underneath but I think they might be.
• Went for dinner which was amazing. Back to our rooms until lights out at 9pm for me.
• 2 more sleeps…

94.71km/551m
Total: 5,879.55km/39,268m