Fin del Mundo
South America EP3: Winds, Sickness & a Big Change of Plans!
Day 29
Isinliví to Laguna Quilotoa | July 21
Up at 7 after a fitful night. We felt rested, but had been awake often. Altitude? Nerves? Just one of those nights.
The route was short but brutally steep, so we flagged down a truck to help get us to the top. The irony: we ended up descending right where they dropped us off. A rough start turned rougher as we followed a shortcut that turned into a rocky goat path. It became a surreal hike-a-bike session through desolate farmland and overgrown cornfields. At one point, we were truly lost—hauling packs and bikes through gullies, fences, and off-trail wilderness.
Eventually, we reached Shalalá Campground. Too tired to haggle, we paid for a ride to Quilotoa. No regrets. The view of Crater Lake was breathtaking—absolutely worth the struggle. Ended the day with a hot shower and a fantastic local dinner. Tired, but thankful.
Day 30: Llamas, Skirts & Hamburguesas
Quilotoa to Angamarca | July 22
Up early for sunrise over the crater… but clouds had other plans. Still, it was a beautiful morning, and after a solid breakfast, we set off.
Downhill out of Quilotoa, then climbed into Zumbahua. Everyone’s in traditional dress—bright skirts, shawls, ponchos. We sourced an old moto inner tube to protect our bikes for upcoming transport, then decided to get a ride partway to conserve energy. Could’ve ridden more, but hindsight is 20/20.
The day ended in Angamarca—a quiet, almost empty town. Picked up snacks and found a cheap dinner. Played some solitaire, listened to scripture, and tried to end the day with gratitude. It helped.
Day 31: Wind Wars & Warm Welcomes
Angamarca to Simiátug | July 23
Slept well and scored a hot-cold-hot (barely) shower. Juan Paolo, the 17-year-old son running the hostel, showed us his horse Maldini before we got a lift 15 km out of the valley.
Then: wind. Brutal, relentless, bike-flipping wind. Both of us were nearly blown off the road. Found shelter in an abandoned brick house and ate avocado buns. Eventually made it into town.
The day turned around when we arrived at the convent. The nuns welcomed us warmly. Cold showers again, but the vibrancy of the town—ecuavóley matches, markets, music—lifted our spirits. A reminder that it’s not just the roads that shape the journey, but the people and energy around you.
Day 32: Cheese, Wind & Chimborazo
Simiátug to Salinas de Bolívar | July 24
Another early morning and another big climb. 19 km with 1,000 m elevation gain. Hit pavement, fought wind, and finally descended into sunny Salinas. Saw Chimborazo in the distance—what a reward!
Salinas is charming, famous for its cheese, chocolate, and salami. Explored the town, watched ecuavóley, and ate pizza with a beer in the square. Feels like a hidden gem tucked high in the Andes.
Day 33: Base Camp Bound
Salinas to Chimborazo | July 25
More headwinds and climbs, but the scenery was unreal. Crossed rivers, passed through dusty valleys, and flew our drone with Chimborazo in view.
Snuck into the park just before closing, then coasted down to our dome stay. The view? Unreal. Warm from the sun and surrounded by volcano magic. Had dinner with climbers aiming for the summit and shared stories under the stars. One of our favorite days.
Day 34: Rodeos & Road Dust
Chimborazo to Guamote | July 26
Wind, descents, technical trails, and some highway. We rode around Chimborazo and through concrete-filled towns before catching a ride up a steep hill. Descended past markets, a rodeo, and even a wedding before finally reaching Guamote.
Found a cozy stay at Inti Sisa and caught a local parade celebrating Guayaquil. Dinner with Dutch and Belgian travelers—laughter, stories, and tired legs.
Day 35: Highway Grind & Surprise Fiesta
Guamote to Chunchi | July 27
Another day on the Panama Highway with plenty of downhill. Stopped in Alausí and decided to keep going.
Made it to Chunchi by 4 PM. Found a hostel, then had an unforgettable dinner experience at La China: dancing appetizers, a piñata-like dessert game, and warm, joyful hospitality. Unexpected joy is the best kind.
Day 36: Climb, Climb, Descend, Climb
Chunchi to El Tambo | July 28
We’re still climbing—and the hats are changing! From long skirts and flat hats to short velvet skirts and bonnets. Ecuador continues to evolve around every bend.
Highlights of the Week:
- Survived intense windstorms and near wipeouts 🚴♀️ 💨
- Made it to 4,000+ meters and felt it 🧠 🌬️
- Hiked bikes through cornfields like confused explorers 🌽
- Sipped Styrofoam tea in a volcano park 🗻 ☕
- Danced into dessert at a roadside restaurant 🎉
- Made new friends—human, horse, and drone 🐴 🤖
Week 5 was raw, relentless, and beautiful. From the eerie stillness of isolated valleys to the chaotic joy of Andean festivals, this stretch was one of contrasts. The climbs are harder, the air is thinner, and our resolve is stronger. Onto Week 6.
WEEK 6 — Fin del Mundo
July 29 – August 4
Day 36 — El Tambo → Cuenca 🇪🇨
July 29
Up at 6:30 a.m., though I’d been up half the night with the runs and a headache. Moved slowly, took some Imodium, and hoped for the best. Breakfast at the hostel was a bright spot — met a lovely French family and even wandered into a conversation about possible “house swaps in the future”.
We rode out at 8:30 toward Ingapirca, the largest known Inca ruins in Ecuador, only to find the park closed. Snapped a few photos anyway, then dropped down through town, back to the river valley, and up onto a dirt road that led to the old rail trail — smooth, scenic, and a joy to ride.
We wrangled the drone for a while, which, as usual, was both fun and frustrating. Along the way, I noticed a very practical livestock strategy here: tie them up in one spot, let them graze a patch bare, then move them along.
The rail trail descent was glorious… except for the dogs. Honestly, I think we were chased more in that last stretch than we have been in weeks. Also — why are all pastries here so dry?
We rolled into Cuenca at 3:00 p.m., our route easing from the Pan-American Highway onto a smooth cycle path. At the hostel, we bumped into some bike tourers we’d met back in Guaymote — always a treat to cross paths again.
Checked into a fantastic hostel, showered, and lounged until dinner at a wonderful Italian spot. My guts rebelled again later, so I was in bed by 9:30.
Day 37 — Cuenca 🇨🇴
July 30
Slept in until 8:00 — heavenly bed, pillows, and duvet. Over breakfast, we mapped out the Peru Divide route and started sketching how to finish Ecuador. Laundry day too, which always feels like a luxury.
We wandered to the Belgian Waffle House for cappuccinos, cookies, bitterballen, frikandel, and a waffle with Brussels sprouts!
Big news: Salsa is sending a new fork for PL’s bike. It’ll be shipped ahead to Huaraz, Peru, and we’ll work our way there over the next couple of weeks. Meanwhile, Cuenca has something miraculous: no wild dogs.
More walking, bank stops, supply runs, and dinner at Negroni, a rooftop Japanese-inspired restaurant. Decided to stay an extra night to sort flights home, China, and our final leg in Nov/Dec.
Day 38 — Cuenca 🇨🇴
July 31
After breakfast, we walked to another rooftop café, Bogoli, for cappuccino and pastries. Three hours disappeared in a blur of booking flights home. PL started feeling feverish and chilled, so we headed back to the hostel where he napped.
We booked flights to Shanghai, then Montreal, plus a car rental and Quebec Airbnb. Only a China hotel left to sort. Dinner was Mexican takeout for me while PL stayed in bed. Fingers crossed we’d be back on the bikes tomorrow.
Day 39 — Cuenca 🇪🇨
August 1
Nope. PL still sick. We extended our stay but had to move to an “attic” room with a smaller bed. Better than switching hotels entirely.
With PL in bed all morning, I wandered Cuenca, visited the flower stalls, and sat in prayer at Santuario Mariano — El Monasterio. This trip is God’s more than mine, and I felt a little more peace about that today.
Lunch solo, a bit of reading and Uncommon Favor by Dawn Staley, then more wandering before heading back. PL rallied enough for a short walk and some udon for dinner — a welcome change from deep-fried food. The city was buzzing with fireworks at night, but we were both still running on low batteries.
Day 40 — Cuenca → Loja 🇪🇨
August 2 | 211 km by bus
Still sick. Both of us. Lightheaded, queasy, and, well… you know. We decided to bus it to Loja.
On the 11 a.m. bus, bikes wedged in the back, we wound our way through mountains peppered with greenhouses — improbably perched on steep slopes. The “direct” bus wasn’t so direct; plenty of pick-ups and drop-offs, often just for a dollar or two, likely pocketed by the driver and conductor.
Massive landslides scarred the highway near Loja. We arrived at 4:00 p.m., rode to our hotel, and grabbed ramen at a sushi-fusion spot. Evening entertainment: catching up on the TCR and Tour de Femmes before crashing early.
Day 41 — Loja → Vilcabamba 🇪🇨
August 3 | TEMBR Finish
PL felt better this morning. After a restless night thanks to road noise, we set off at 8:15 a.m. Gentle climbs, long descents, and Sunday cyclists everywhere. We followed the river before hitting pavement, got stuck behind buses on a descent, then stopped for freshly pressed cane juice mixed with orange — delicious.
By 11:30 a.m., we rolled into Vilcabamba and the official end of the TEMBR. Not exactly how we imagined finishing, but we made it.
The rest of the day was spent on showers, China visa research (thanks to Maijken’s timely reminder), and reworking travel plans. Dinner in the square was lively, especially seated next to Parisian architecture students here building a school.
Day 42 — Vilcabamba → Valladolid 🇪🇨
August 4
Up at 7:00 a.m., hunting for breakfast before a long day. Scored eggs, bacon, toast, and a great cappuccino, plus empanadas for the road (though they took forever).
We climbed straight out of town under overcast skies and wind. PL, having hit his head on a doorway last night, rode helmetless for the first time — third time he’s done that recently.
The day was tropical, lush, and smoky from sugarcane field burns. In Yangana, we stopped for snacks before tackling more climbing into wet, misty, and chilly conditions at the pass. We reached Valladolid just as the rain began to dump.
Our hostel had the infamous electric showerheads — PL figured out the trick (turn the tap only partway), but unfortunately, I showered before he shared that gem. Dinner was burgers, fries, and plastic gloves to eat with — a delight — followed by PL’s bonus round of chicken wings.
