Fin del Mundo
South America EP2: …
Day 12: Roads Not Taken
San Vicente del Caguán | July 4
A slow day. We started with a coffee that didn’t hit the spot—rookie mistake—and wandered the town looking for contact cement to fix PL’s drone mount. People here laugh with us as we bumble through the language and logistics.
We researched the infamous “Trampoline of Death” road again. A recent landslide took out a van. That confirmed our decision.
That night we went back to the street market with Sophia. Tried deep-fried eggs, yucca and cheese wrapped in banana leaves, and blood sausage (which neither of us loved, but hey—when in Colombia). A local running group passed us as we explored. It was Friday night, no rain, and the whole town seemed alive.
Day 13: Waterfalls & Parrots with an Attitude
San Vicente del Caguán | July 5
We woke up to live music echoing through the streets and sunshine on our faces. Watched Maijken row and then—surprise—my pannier was full of ants. I’d left food in there, and they’d found it. At least we had to clear out food before flying anyway. We also heard our bike part was not going to arrive today.
Mario and his roommate Fabian took us to the Reserva San Venancio. After a short jungle hike, we swam in a waterfall. The air was humid, the water cold but refreshing.
We shared a big lunch, got bit by a grumpy parrot, and skipped Mario’s evening basketball game to rest. The small moments today were enough.
Day 14: Canyon Crawling & Scooter Adventures
San Vicente del Caguán | July 6
Up at 6:15 to be ready for 7. In true Colombian time, after motorcycle repairs, more coffee & some breakfast, we were off by 9:00 on the back of Mario’s and Sophia’s motorcycles, heading to Aguas Cristales. We had no idea what we were in for.
We hiked through fields, mud, and jungle, then entered a canyon for what became a 6-hour, 9.5km adventure through rushing water, slippery rocks, and breathtaking scenery. We swam, scrambled, and waded through the heart of the jungle.
By the time we climbed out, soaked and tired, a warm meal waited for us: ribs, fish,, rice, salad, and plátanos.
We stopped at the scenic Hunters lookout on the ride back, arriving back in town after dark. That day was magic. It reminded us that this trip isn’t about checking off kilometers—it’s about saying yes to the unknown.
July 7 – 13 From San Vicente de Caguán 🇨🇴 to Quito, Ecuador 🇪🇨
Day 15 – Slow Mornings & Big Decisions
San Vicente de Caguán, Colombia – July 7
After a few physically demanding days, we took a slower pace this morning. I woke up a bit sore, but PL’s mobility routines seem to be paying off—he’s feeling good.
Breakfast was a win: properly-cooked oatmeal and a second go at our Aeropress coffee. Both hit the spot. While lounging in the common area, we started plotting our next move—Quito to the equator by bike and then onto TEMBR is officially the plan!
We ran errands: boxes, tape, X-Acto knife—all part of prepping the bikes for the flight. Oscar at the bike shop has been helping us coordinate packing and transport. Still no sign of PL’s derailleur. It’s cutting it close.
Lunch across the street (again) was great—never gets old. Later, we started boxing up our gear and finalizing plans for Quito:
- Wednesday: Unbox bikes & settle in
- Thursday: Tour Quito
- Friday: Ride to the equator (~80km round trip)
- Saturday: Begin the TEMBR (Trans Ecuador Mountain Bike Route)… again
Of course, this all depends on that rear derailleur showing up.
We ended the night chatting with a few podcasters staying at the same hotel and grabbed empanadas from town. We watched our first video from Maddox—it’s wild how little riding we’ve done so far! One last night in San Vicente.
Day 16 – Leaving Colombia
San Vicente de Caguán 🇨🇴 → Bogotá → Quito 🇪🇨 – July 8
Woke early to finish taping up our boxes. Our go-to café wasn’t open yet, so we watched the town come to life—locals, older folks collecting their pensions, and a parade of dapper men in scarves, pressed jeans, and hats. There’s such effortless style here.
Sofia brought us a sweet goodbye gift: panella, fresh cheese, and guava bocadillo—so delicious. One final lunch across the street (still amazing), then off to the airport… derailleur still MIA.
Our bikes were almost rejected—too big—but somehow we made it through. We found out after we boarded that the derailleur had arrived in San Vicente just over an hour after we left. 🤦🏽♀️ Thankfully, Sofia’s mom might be able to forward it to Quito.
Back in Bogotá, airport security flagged our boxes (CO2 cartridges, again). That stuff always sneaks through—until it doesn’t. The departure lounge was beautiful, but the flight was delayed. Didn’t land in Quito until 1:30 AM.
Day 17 – Arriving in Ecuador
Quito, Ecuador – July 9
After a long night, we finally arrived at our hotel around 3 AM. First impressions: more English speakers and way more developed infrastructure than Bogotá. Streetlights, highways—it feels very different.
Judy, our cook, made us a hearty breakfast. We FaceTimed Maijken and Willy at PL’s old farm in Friesland and even toured his childhood bedroom. Very special.
The derailleur situation is still evolving—might arrive by Friday. Fingers crossed. We filled the day with some light mobility, route planning, ping pong, and dreaming of smoother logistics.
Day 18 – Exploring Quito
Quito – July 10
We finally hit the city! Ubered in wearing our beloved Tevas and Sea to Summit packs. Quito is urban, orderly, and shockingly high-tech. Helmets, seatbelts, fresh pavement—it’s not the South America we expected.
We joined a hop-on-hop-off tour led by Erika and learned so much:
- Quito = land of four seasons in one day
- Half of Ecuador is jungle
- The Amazon was named after female warriors
- Historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
We explored Iglesia la Basílica—277 steps to the top. It was a tight climb, but worth it. PL lost his ticket (again), and it bugged him all day—though we found it in my bag later. 😅
Finished the day with street food and beer. Great views. Great vibes. Great company.
Day 19 – A Little Bit of Home
Quito – July 11
Couldn’t sleep last night. Up reading until 4:30. Then, in a bizarre twist of fate, we ran into a family from Mission at our hotel—the same family we met at our travel clinic in Abbotsford. Small world!
Did a supply run into Quito, saw women in traditional dress, bought rain gear and fuel, and got back in time for more route planning.
At dinner, we watched a Jason Statham movie and called it a night. DHL says the derailleur will arrive… Tuesday. Ugh.
Day 20 – A Soaking at the Springs
Papallacta Hot Springs – July 12
Woke up and spontaneously decided to visit the Galápagos—but flights are full. Plan B? The Papallacta Hot Springs.
The drive there was wild—rain, fog, landslides, and a summit at 4,000m. The hot springs were gorgeous though. We soaked for over an hour in thermal pools surrounded by misty mountain views.
Dinner back at the hotel was quiet. It’s a little disheartening not being able to get to the Galápagos—but the journey continues.
Day 21 – Football & Full Circles
Quito – July 13
Another early wake-up. After a slow morning with Judy (who asked “¿Qué pasó?” when we said we were still stuck), we hoofed it 5km to the airport trying to snag last-minute Galápagos tickets. No luck. Again.
We FaceTimed the kids, packed up our bikes, and then headed into town for something we’d been looking forward to: Women’s Copa America Football – Brazil vs. Venezuela.
The atmosphere was amazing. Soaked socks and ponchos in hand, we devoured 7 empanadas and cheered as Marta led Brazil to a 2-0 win. Tickets? Just $3. Easily one of the most fun nights of the trip.
Reflections
This week was full of contrasts: from slow mornings in Colombia to city chaos in Quito. From soaking in volcanic springs to sitting in bike shop limbo. From frustration over missed parts to football magic in a pouring stadium.
Still so far to go. But we’re just getting started.
July 14–19 | Quito to Cotopaxi, Ecuador 🇪🇨
Day 22 – Waiting on a Part, Gaining New Followers
Quito | July 14
Our morning started with breakfast and some route planning in Ride with GPS—finally feeling a little more organized about where we’re headed. We decided to open up the bike boxes and build everything back up, hoping that the long-awaited derailleur part would arrive by the end of the day.
It was almost a rest day, but I couldn’t help taking the bike out for a quick 15 km spin toward the airport. After a bite to eat next door, we returned to the hotel… still no part. A bit deflated.
Dinner was an unexpected highlight. We beat a massive group of Belgian travelers to the restaurant and struck up a conversation—they were supporting local coffee farmers. We shared our trip story and scored five new followers! Back at the hotel, we tried watching a movie on YouTube (tech fail), but ended the night on a hopeful note: PL got an email that the part was handed off to a third-party courier. Fingers crossed.
Day 23 – The Derailleur Miracle & Coastline Temptations
Quito | July 15
While prepping to Uber into Quito to retrieve the package, PL’s card got declined. So he rebooted his phone and tried again. As we waited by the gate… a delivery truck rolled up. It was the derailleur. Had the Uber arrived moments earlier, we would’ve missed it entirely. Sometimes a bit of bad luck saves you.
PL got to work fixing his bike, and over lunch we debated a coastal route—beaches are tempting—but ultimately decided we’d miss Cotopaxi, which feels like a must.
We took the bikes out for a 20 km shakedown loop. PL’s derailleur held up, and though I didn’t feel super fresh, it was good to be moving again. We reaffirmed our commitment to the original plan: head to the equator and tackle the Trans-Ecuador Mountain Bike Route (TEMBR). Back at the hotel, we dove into more route planning and hit the hay early. Big ride coming.
Day 24 – Welcome to the Equator (And the Climb Back Out)
Quito ➝ Guayllabamba | July 16
Up early for our final morning at Quito Airport Suites. Judy and Dom were amazing hosts—big thanks to them.
The ride today was a grind. Climbed out of Quito, descended a monster hill… only to climb straight back up the other side. We pushed on to the equator, passed it by accident (nothing there, really), then lunched mid-descent. A strong tailwind helped, but this was one of those push, rest, breathe, repeat kind of days.
We finally rolled into Guayllabamba, completely wrecked—shaky arms, sore traps, full-body fatigue. A cold Fanta and ice cream helped.
Then we tackled a final 6 km climb to our campsite, Puerto de Montaña—a brutal 10% grade, but Juano welcomed us warmly. Hot showers, pasta with sausage, and fresh lime juice at sunset made it worth it. We even caught Wi-Fi in the gazebo.
Day 25 – Into the Valleys & Casa de Ciclistas
Guayllabamba ➝ Tumbaco | July 17
Up with the sun and fed by banana and aguacate. Juano told us the red lights in the mountains at night are “summer flower lights”—used to compensate for Ecuador’s 12-hour days. We also learned about ecuavóley, Ecuador’s 3v3 volleyball with a soccer ball. Wild.
We had a mix of long climbs and rolling flats, landed in El Quinche… only to find every café closed. Eventually stumbled on waffles and cappuccinos with the Tour de France on the TV. Win.
The highlight of the day was a dreamlike 20 km descent on an old rail trail. We rolled into Tumbaco around 2:30 and found Casa de Ciclistas, run by Santiago and Ana Lucía. We took a proper room instead of camping—luxury! Santiago is low-key cycling royalty: he hosted Cass Gilbert, the guy behind the TEMBR route.
Over dinner and tea, we learned more about the area, and how the TEMBR route came to life. A beautiful way to end the day.
Day 26 – Hospitality in Pintag
Tumbaco ➝ Pintag | July 18
We were serenaded awake by birds at 5 AM. Breakfast with Ana Lucía and Santiago was fresh and hearty: eggs, avocado, cheese, fruit, and coffee.
Rode out at 10 AM and climbed out of Tumbaco through cobbled streets and eventually hit a flat bench road—easier riding than yesterday, thank goodness. In Santa Ana, we lunched at a bus stop on yogurt and soda.
We arrived in Pintag around 2 PM. Instead of pushing on, we paused… and then met José, a retired tour guide and police officer who offered us a place to stay. Said yes without hesitation. Loaded our bags into Peter’s truck and biked 12 minutes uphill to their family home. Best decision of the day.
Dinner was incredible and the view even better. PL flew the drone, we met José’s family (7 siblings, 12 grandkids!), and even got a little Spanish lesson in José’s classroom. The evening ended with heartfelt words from José reminding us that God’s plan is better than ours. Powerful stuff.
Day 27 – Cotopaxi Birthday Bash
Pintag ➝ Cotopaxi National Park | July 19
🎉 PL’s birthday! 🎂 Not the best sleep—dogs and roosters had other plans—but the birthday vibes stayed high.
After breakfast with José’s whole family, we began our journey into the high Andes. First, a long cobbled descent, then a hike-a-bike section up to Santa Domingo. We flagged a passing truck and for $2 hitched a lift to the top. Worth it.
From there, it was a long slog through cow pastures, alpine trails, and wind-blasted ridges at over 3,500 m. Rain jackets came out, and we gritted our way into Cotopaxi National Park.
And then—magic. The clouds parted and we saw the snow-capped Cotopaxi peak, with a rainbow behind us. A surreal, unforgettable moment.
But we got off route and arrived cold and tired at the wrong entrance. Thankfully, iOverlander saved us—found a warm lodge nearby. Dinner included hot chocolate, soup, and a surprise birthday cake for PL. Wrapped the day feeling exhausted, but so incredibly grateful.
Reflections from the Road
This week had it all: mechanical miracles, challenging climbs, warm hospitality, and moments of spiritual clarity. We hit the equator, saw Cotopaxi in its glory, and were constantly reminded that it’s not just about the ride—it’s about the people, the lessons, and the why behind the journey.
Next stop: deeper into the Andes and the heart of the TEMBR route.
