Fin del Mundo
South America EP1: A Different Kind of Riding…
Week 1 – Fin del Mundo: Pedaling Through Colombia
Day 1: Bogotá to Fosca – Finding Our Rhythm
June 23 – 65.13 km
We woke up nervous but excited, unsure of what this “Fin del Mundo” journey would really feel like. Once we were on the bikes and rolling, the nerves began to ease. It was a holiday in Colombia, so many streets were closed to traffic—perfect for cyclists like us. We even saw a bunny on a leash. Classic.
Leaving Bogotá was smoother than expected. As we got out of the city and climbed into the hills, we were surrounded by colorful hillside homes and fellow cyclists. Rain and wind greeted us at the top of the pass, so we ducked into a roadside hut for lunch. The descent into the valley was lush and fragrant, though my energy tanked—undertrained, altitude, or both. I had to walk part of the steep section before getting a lift from three kind strangers in a truck.
We rolled into our first night’s stay: an organic farm full of families celebrating the holiday. Homemade arepas, empanadas, and hot panela warmed us up as kids played and people gathered. Google Translate got a workout as we tried to hold conversations. We’re realizing how much easier (and more respectful) this trip will be with better Spanish.
Dogs curled up on our porch. We felt safe. PL decided to stay an extra day.
Day 2: Rest Day at Escala 100 Organic Farm
June 24
Woke up to dogs still sleeping outside our cabin. Breakfast was a feast: waffles, fresh fruit, arepas, sabajón, hot chocolate with cheese, and a broth with ribs and potatoes. Too much food—but absolutely delicious.
We toured the farm with our hosts—Nicholas, Geraldine, and their daughter Luciana. This place has been in the family for over 200 years. We helped collect eggs and played a bit of Tejo (a very loud, very fun Colombian game).
Still raining, so the day was slow. PL flew his drone when he could, and we read, rested, and wandered. At dinner, Anna, the farm matriarch, told us her family heard what we were doing and wanted to help. We all got emotional. This is why we’re riding.
Day 3: Fosca to Villavicencio – A Tunnel Adventure
June 25 – 137.1 km
After another amazing breakfast, we said goodbye to Anna and hit the road under sunny skies. The ride was filled with lush countryside and long, winding descents. We reached several tunnels—some long, some short. We walked one, rode through another, and eventually hit a washed-out section of road due to landslides.
Thankfully, a road works crew took our bikes and a local family gave us a ride. They warned us to be careful in Villavicencio at night. We stopped at a tollbooth and asked the police to help us with another tunnel—they flagged down a cattle truck to take us through the 4km passage.
Rolled into Villavicencio and found a surprisingly nice hotel. Showers, sunshine, and gear drying felt like luxury. But some blog reading left us feeling anxious about upcoming remote areas. We planned to head to Granada and decide from there.
Day 4: Villavicencio to Granada – Seeking Wisdom
June 26 – 226.37 km
Early start with a helpful hotel staff. More warnings about unsafe areas near Vista Hermosa and Santo Domingo. We reminded ourselves: stay curious, not fearful. Beautiful riding today with massive fincas, pineapple sellers, and Brahman cattle with floppy ears.
Police and locals both said the area south is risky. We met a woman from Vista Hermosa who offered to help us with accommodation and the tricky route to La Macarena. We kept our phones hidden and took off jewelry—being smart, not scared.
Got a hotel just outside Granada with a pool, and burgers delivered for dinner. First monkeys spotted! Watched a quinceañera photo shoot. Felt surreal and grounded all at once.
Day 5: Granada to Vista Hermosa – Heat and Hospitality
June 27 – 282.49 km
Rainy and muggy. Flat roads, ranches, then a big climb. Caught up on Bible reading and had an empanada at a finca gate. At one point, we saw a dead crocodile on the road. Classic reminder we’re not in Kansas anymore.
We rolled into Vista Hermosa and checked into a hotel recommended by a local, Aura. Power went out. No cell service. But a friendly chat with a local guy from Edmonton lifted our spirits. Another quiet night, full of gratitude.
Day 6: Vista Hermosa to La Macarena – 8 Hours in a Shuttle
June 28
Loaded up the bikes and ourselves into two trucks for the long ride to La Macarena. Locals had a good laugh at the gringos with bikes. The road was wild in parts—some sketchy bridges, a canoe-powered ferry, and seven hours of bouncing through the jungle.
Annoyed we were overcharged for bike transport, but locals helped us sort it out. Arrived at our eco-lodge to cool showers, warm meals, and friendly faces. Chicken, rice, and plantains never tasted so good.
Day 7: La Macarena to Caño Cristales – Into the Wild
June 29
Met Walter, our English-speaking guide and father of two. Took a ferry across the river and biked out to the waterfalls. It was Walter’s first time guiding by bike. Explored Caño Cristales—aka the “River of Five Colors.” Swam in pristine pools and wandered deeper into the jungle. Got bit by red ants (thanks, Tevas).
Walter kindly bought us drinks when we ran out of pesos. We finally sorted out some cash and returned to the eco-lodge. Luz, one of the staff, fed the monkeys and let us join. We watched squirrel monkeys, spider monkeys, and heard the howl of the reds. Faces so human-like it gave us chills.
She even gave us bug spray and discounted our room because of a booking error. Kindness everywhere.
What We’re Learning
- Spanish helps—big time.
- Curiosity > fear.
- People are incredibly kind.
- Dogs on porches make great night guards.
- Sometimes, rest days reveal the most.
Week 1: complete. From Bogotá’s cycle paths to La Macarena’s jungle rivers, we’re finding our rhythm—and letting Colombia surprise us.
Week 2 — Rain, Roads & Real Connections
Day 9: Busted Chains & Milk Truck Miracles
La Cristalina → San Vicente del Caguán | July 1 | 15km ride + 60km by truck
Happy Canada Day! We slept with open windows, an unlocked door, our bikes outside, and only a fan—typical by now.
After a simple breakfast with Ephraim and another hour spent failing to sort out the eSIM, we finally got on the road by 9:30. Rain started lightly, which felt like a gift in the heat. But 15km in, disaster struck—PL’s derailleur tore clean off after his chain jumped into the spokes. Just like that, we were walking our bikes in a downpour, hoping for a miracle.
That miracle came in the form of a milk truck. Our driver and Jefferson, a 20-year-old worker, let us load our bikes and ride with him for the next hour and a half as he picked up milk from farms and delivered packages. It turned our misfortune into something beautiful: a look into rural life we never would’ve experienced otherwise.
We arrived in San Vicente around 3 PM, where Mario—the motorcyclist we’d met the day before—met us and helped us find a hotel. Ephraim had also sent a contact. The hospitality continues to amaze.
At 5 PM, the bike shop opened, and PL and Mario went to try to find a new derailleur. It’ll take five days to arrive, but at least it’s somewhere in Colombia. Dinner that night with Mario was full of energy—he’s got big dreams of becoming mayor, and PL promised to return and shake his hand when he does.
We also met Sophia, Mario’s cousin—smart, funny, and fluent in English. Over burgers (served with plantains instead of buns), we reflected on the journey so far. PL’s feeling discouraged, like nothing is going right. But I reminded him: this is what bikepacking really is. It’s slow, uncertain, and full of stories you couldn’t plan.
Day 10: Rest, Rain & Real Conversations
San Vicente del Caguán | July 2
We woke to heavy rain—again. Apparently, we’re in one of the wettest regions of Colombia during the rainy season.
We stayed close to the hotel. Had a classic Colombian lunch: meat, rice, beans, plantains, and delicious soup. Then met up with Mario for coffee and another deep conversation—this time about faith vs. religion. Later, we went out for dinner with Mario and Sophia. It poured the whole time, but the conversations and the food made it feel warm inside.
Day 11: Decisions, Doubts & Drenched Laundry
San Vicente del Caguán | July 3
PL spent the morning chasing down his Western Union transfer—six stops later, he finally had the cash. We also met a Canadian-American couple who’ve been visiting this region for years. Their advice was hard to hear: with the rain, remote roads, and robbery risk, riding south might not be safe.
We’d already been considering flying. This nudged us further.
I got my bike cleaned up at Oscar’s shop, then we joined Sophia and her mom for frozen yogurt. We walked to see the flooded riverbanks where farmers recently had to move livestock. The water’s high—and dangerous.
Later that night, after a video call with Maijken, we made the final call: we’ll fly to Quito. It’s tough not to feel like we’re backing out, but as PL said, “We won’t miss what we don’t know.”
