Cycle 5 in Malawi: Chitimba Camp

Day 15: Chitimba Camp, Malawi

Up at 6:30 AM. PL went for a walk and I just chilled in bed listening to my audiobook until breakfast.
EL, the chef, was back so we had full menu options. PL had the big breakfast which was cereal, eggs, and toast, yogurt, fruit, and bacon. I had yogurt and we had another nice press, coffee.
We met a family from Tennessee, David & Leanne & 2 kids Levi & Gracie & David’s Sister (born in Kenya) that came in late last night and had some wonderful chats in the morning about what we’re doing and what they’re doing.
Got excited as possible new option for eSIM’s, Google FI, but it’s only good for Americans…so that sucks! Back to more discussions about all the problems with the world.
Said goodbye to the Americans and then went to our room for a bit. Had lunch, hit the beach and then more planning.
Another group showed up for the night.
Walked around for a bit while we waited for supper outside the gate. But just wasn’t in the right mood to explore. Met another bikepacker, Fred from England, who’s riding in the same direction. Came from the border today.
Back for dinner, more chats and then a fun chat with Fred.
In bed by 10pm.

Day 16: Chitimba > Livingstonia, Malawi

Up for breakfast at 8am. Uploading photos to use up the WIFI data we bought.
More great chats with Ed & Carmen.
Pictures of the Genet-cat/feret. It’s a 3 month old they found. They are nursing it until it is 1 to release. Such an interesting looking creature.
Paying things online to save our kwacha to make it to Zambia as the rates are crazy to get anything out of the ATM.
After breakfast, we packed our bags ready to go, said goodbye to Fred who is heading up to the mushroom farm and then just waited and chatted with Ed and Carmen until the motorcycles arrived.
Watched them load everything up, decided in the end that we would keep PL‘s bike so that he could push it up because it was too big to fit on the motorcycle. Then we said our goodbyes and started our hike.
The hike was 11.64km and was pretty decent although I didn’t have a bike to push but without the bags, it was fine for PL.
Actually really pretty with some fresh water 3/4 way up.
Arrived at 2 PM and found my bike and bags there.
Ordered lunch to wait for our room to be cleaned. As soon as our plate was put down a monkey raced over to grab some food off of it.
Unpacked and had hot showers which were amazing! Probably the best ones because there was so much water pressure!!
Then went to the bar to chat and get WiFi. Hung out with Fred and Gerald (Dutch backpackers).
Then a whole big family from Sri Lanka showed up with all their kids and gave us cookies.
Finally got my Kobo synched so I have books again.
Hung out until dinner which was family style. Ate with Fred (England), Ollie (Swiss) & 2 Dutchies, Ruud & Wouter. Dinner was amazing! (Vegetarian lodge).
Had a blast chatting about who was doing what and why.
Then we watched the final and had a few beers.

11.64km/709m
Total: 1,075.99km/9,686m

Day 17: Mushroom Farm Lodge

6:30 woke up to a beautiful morning here at the Mushroom Farm. The Chombe Mountains are stunning and Lake Malawi is impressive. We are in the Chombe Mountain Reserve. Lake Malawi is bigger than Holland.
Had to get up to go to the bathroom which is a 100m away! Took a look around and it was so pretty. Then back to our tent.
Made our way to the common area for coffees and breakfast. More chat and hanging out. Must watch New Kids (Dutch show).
Decided that we are all going to head to the Mantchewe Waterfalls. So we walked for half an hour. Paid our 2000 Mkw each and went down to see all the waterfalls and caves.

Then walked to Livingstonia and tried to find Airtel‘s. We forgot our passports though so that’s a problem. It was a lot more clean moving and farther away than we thought.
Took a long time to get Wouter’s ATM card to work. Still not sure if it’s working.
Walked a bunch more and got some fried potatoes and salsa. They were delicious. Then we bought some food for tomorrow and got into a math war about change. Figured it out.
Finally got home before 6pm just in time for dinner. Changed and ate with the gang. Yummy again and fun conversation.
Then had a quick shower at 8pm and back to hang for a bit.
Ready for bed and a bit anxious to ride out tomorrow. Hoping the shoulder feels good.
Went to bed at 8:30. Last night here.

17.72km/511m
Total: 1,093.71km/10,197m

Day 18: Livingstonia > Ekwendeni (Ngupefiki Lodge)

Up at 6pm. Off to the bathroom and then started packing and reorganizing.
Woke up with more bites all along my upper legs. Or they got bigger. A bit itchy too. So I put After Bite on and took some Benadryl.
Down for breakfast and coffee with Fred & Wouter. More discussions that will stay with us for a long time. We really hope we see them again.
Had an amazing chat with the owner of the mushroom farm Paul.
Quick visit to the garden and then finally riding out at 8:30am.
Had to push a little bit on some of the gravel, but then hit the tarmac and it was beautiful. Lots of cultivating and farming in this area.
Had a beautiful first morning section and then turned right onto the M1 and instantly got on this new paved highway that’s not being used by trucks yet. Bonus.
A lot of really nice up and down for the whole first section and then continued on as we stayed on the M1.
Stopped for water a few times and hope to make it to our destination in the next hour.
Rode by the Ngupefiki Lodge so we checked it out. Looks decent so we’ll stay here.
Only one breakfast included, and the restaurant is down the street. But it’s 5:30 PM so it’s nice to be here.
Had warm bucket showers and then we walked into town about a kilometer to get some food. All the power was out, but we found a little roadside spot so we had beef skewers, fried potatoes, a salad and beer. It was a perfect meal and a nice cold beer for the end of today.

We had to walk back in the dark and I couldn’t see very well. I stepped right into a gross water puddle of a lot of things I don’t wanna think about.
Had a nice warm foot bath to clean everything off when I got back!
Power was off still at the hotel, but there’s solar power so we did have lights. Plugged things into charge. Hopefully the power will come back on.
It was a really good day. The shoulder felt OK. It’s a little sore now, but I think it’s just from being at that angle. Really happy about where we ended up and how I’m recovering.
Got ready for bed at 8:00pm.

110.4km/1,315m
Total: 1,204.11km/11,512m

Day 19: Ekwendeni > Nkhata Bay, Malawi (Soul Rebel Lodge)

Both woke up before 6:30 AM. Was an average sleep as I was up quite a bit hearing mosquitoes and feeling itchy. But overall not too bad.
Power must’ve come on in the middle of the night as things were charged. But it’s off again this morning.
Packed up and then went for breakfast. Basic two pieces of bread, boiled egg and some french fries with tea.
Riding out at 7:30 AM.
Because the terrain is flat, there are a lot of bike around. They have a bigger back padded seat where you can sit two people no problem.
About 3 1/2 km in, PL realized that he left his jacket back in the hotel. So we pulled off dropped our bags and he’s riding back to grab them.
Good thing is, my clothes are still wet from washing them last night. Now I’m just sitting in the sun drying out.
Ended up turning my Rogers on to try to send an email to let a host know that we’re not coming to stay at her Warmshowers but can’t get the data to work.
Hit Mzuzu at 9:30 am and the went to the Airtel to get our SIM cards. All of a sudden Wouter walked in.
Successful SIM purchase!!!
PL was able to also get all of his money out of stock and into the Airtel app. That will help us with paying through most of Malawi.
Stopped at Cool Beans coffee shop for some coffee cake, cappuccinos, and samosas & sausages for the road!! Wasn’t cheap… Cost as much as our combinations and dinner last night, but it was really worth it!
Rolled into Nhkaye Bay at 1:15pm. Amazing. Found a campsite and had a cold beer. Wouter shouted up 15 min later!!!

Got some stuff uploaded and then set up camp. Then Fred showed up. So we are camping all together.
Went for a swim in the lake and then up to the restaurant/bar for drinks. Had a beer and whiskey shots with a group of locals celebrating the life of one of the guys wife who just died.
After a beer and more discussion, we went into town to walk and see what was there. Had another beer with popcorn and peanuts.
Back up to the campsite to have supper. Had pizzas which were way overpriced but…
Pizza was good. We have a few extra for lunch. Got everything uploaded and then I went to bed early to read. PL came a little bit later.

69.12km/693m
Total: 1,273.23km/12,205m

Day 20: Nkhata Bay > Ngala, Malawi (Ngala Beach Lodge)

Up at 6 AM packing up to get ready for breakfast at 7 AM. Had some good sleeps and woke up to wonderful waves in the morning.
Unfortunately, my shoulder is pretty sore so we’ll see how today goes.
Had breakfast and a good chat with Fred and Wouter. They are staying another day.
Riding out at 8:30 AM. Starting with 4 km climb out from the beach back up to our route. Stopped for bananas and donuts on our way up.
Had a good few hours of riding and then stopped for lunch at 12 at a roadside stand.
Riding along the shoreline again so it’s pretty.
I’ve seen a lot of couples walking a little bit together. Just one boy. Today I saw the first couple holding hands.
Stopped for water, Fantas and a snack at 2:15 in a small village. Had a whole crew watch us eat and drink. Oh well.
Saw our first irrigation sprinklers today. Very interesting. There is a lot of cultivation going on in Malawi.
We officially stopped saying hello to groups of men, boys and kids. They basically say something like “give me money” or something we don’t understand. So now we’re mostly saying hi to women, single kids or people. It’s too bad. We’re also starting to get called azu.
Rolled into Ngala Beach Lodge at 3:30 PM. Negotiated a sweet deal for a room with a king bed.
Sat in the lounge for a few hours while the water heated up and just got updated with our downloads, etc.
Had warm showers and then back to the restaurant for supper at 6 PM. Ended up chatting with four locals who are auditing the financials of this lodge. Their English is so wellspoken that PL asked where they were from.
Back to our room pretty early and in bed by 8 PM.